The island was ‘discovered’ by Jacques Cousteau on his way back from the Great Barrier Reef, when SY Calypso turned a quick two day stop 50 years ago into a six week dive fest.
We checked out of the Anambas, said goodbye to the friends we had made there and wondered if we would ever come back. How many changes does that beautiful place have ahead of it?
The archipelago of Ko Rok Nai and Ko Rok Yai is the mother of all those deserted-white-sand-palm-fringed beaches you see in travel brochures and on postcards. The place is a cliché, except that it isn’t. It’s real and golden and joyous and quiet and infused with peace.
We spied across the bay a lonely old Turk, in his dinghy waving at us. He was right next to what looked like a very pretty sandy bay. No-one else was there.. “Beware of Turks bearing gifts” thought we, but nevertheless decided to give it a go. We anchored and went stern to.
By late afternoon we moored up to a buoy in Ortakent and I tried snorkelling for the first time; it was amazing seeing the seabed thirty foot below and little fishes swimming underneath me. I then knew what to have for my evening meal!