Note the wind speed. After successfully leaving the harbour without fouling chains or lines I left the harbour smack into a near-gale. No problem, though, as the fetch was small, so with a reefed mizzen and yankee and full stay sail Millie and I were hitting over 8 knots boat speed without the main up! Another wonderful sail. It lasted as long as it took to get to the south west corner of Kalimnos, however, as the wind died and the sea got confused. As we rounded the corner the white horses picked up again and before we knew it we were motoring in more near-gale winds and waves a couple of metres high. It all died down again though as we bore east in towards our destination, Emborios, at the north end of the island.
My first impressions of Kalimnos close-up? Sheer, rugged and desolate in places, broken up by the odd town here and there. Another island worthy of film-set status. Quite breathtaking. Check out the amateur video clip…
Emborios is a tiny hamlet with just a couple of restaurants who provide mooring buoys for yotties. Yep, you guessed it, another task as yet not undertaken single-handed. I think I performed it admirably, even if I say so myself, especially after tying up and watching another boat make a real pig’s ear of it all: lost boat hooks, screaming skipper, trembling wife…usual story. Hey, I’ve had my bad luck, it’s somebody elses turn!
Whilst there is little in the way of a town in Emborios I can recommend going for a walk westwards, which John, Pat and I did. It offers some stunning views of the bay. I managed to catch some of my fave snaps of this year so far.
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The evening is worth finishing off in Kosta Restaurant, where the Simian prawns are divine. All food cooked by grandma. Avoid the cafe Artistas. We were charged €4 a milk-shake and the pretentious owner spends his time ordering his son and daughter to wait tables whilst he lords it around forgetting orders. He proudly tunes his guitar whilst encouraging his sycophants to chant ‘Bravo’ in order to tease the curiosity of passing customers. Hmmmm. Perhaps I’m being a bit harsh; I’m sure running a business somewhere this remote in this economic climate must be difficult… but €4 for a milkshake? I think I’ll stick to €3 beer.
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