Not quite the polar opposite of Lipsi, but a busy island all the same. Welcome to Patmos, a pretty looking island with some of the best views in the Aegean. The anchorage was sheltered, with a couple of tavernas ashore offering some tender octopus salad and tsatsiki that makes you feel like the whole of Greece is partying in your mouth!
Upon the continuing recommendations of the mysterious Antonio we get a local taverna to organise a cab for us to take us to the top of the mountain to visit the monastery. Imagine how, after paying €10 for the cab, we wheedle our way through the tight streets, pass the tourist shops selling the usual postcards and fridge magnets (where is this fridge magnet factory that seems to supply every tourist shop in Greece with this tat?) to the very top of the town to find the monastery closed! No one told us! Bear in mind we asked the taverna waitress to order us a cab, telling her where we were heading; the taxi driver dropped us off at the foot of the hill and even told us how to get there; we bought a drink from the kiosk at the bottom of the hill and the vendor said nothing; all the tourist shops leading up to the closed monastery gates were, cunningly, open. I thought it was a bit of a piss-take, but the views across the seas towards Samos and Turkey were worth it.