All Alone In Aphrodisias

Afrodisias and Efes in one day: what a unique birthday treat!

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Liz:


Freshly picked birthday flowers
On Sunday (my birthday) I awoke to a room full of balloons that Jamie had blown up during the night. When we went down to eat I found on the table a pot of wild flowers that he'd picked for me earlier. What a star. After a simple breakfast we headed off to Afrodisias. We arrived ten minutes before the site opened and were let in. What an absolute treat. We were the only ones there for almost the entire visit. It is truly impressive, in excellent condition and an absolute must for anyone remotely interested in history. I find it difficult to say what impressed me most, but the imposing Tetrapylon was a fantastic way to start off the visit.

 


The Tetrapylon at Afrodisias

The stadium, which seats 30,000 people, left us both speechless. The two agoras, temples, palaces, colonnaded palaestra, odeum, bath houses and other structures kept us absorbed, but again, it was the theatre that charmed us. It has been built in one of the two bronze age mounds found on the site and is in great condition, with carved names on some of the seats and an impressive throne-style chair in the middle of the front row. The stage is in good repair with inscriptions and carvings surrounding it. We tested the acoustics which were superb, you can hear a whisper from the stage in the top row. Before we left Afrodisias we took my brother's, advice and visited the museum which houses some spectacular statuary. The sculptors of the day were so talented that they managed to turn stone to cloth – the folds and draping of the carved garments were truly exquisite. We particularly liked a series of “shield portraits” of philosophers and important men which had been found in one of the houses and were mounted side by side on the front wall inside the museum.


Carved faces of Afrodisias

Theatre

Theatre

Temple of Aphrodite

Entrance to the theatre

South Forum

Temple of Aphrodite

More faces

Afrodisias had been a unique experience for us. Visiting the site with no-one else around, on a beautiful sunny day in Spring must be just about the best way of seeing it. Next was Efes (Turkish for Ephesus), but that was going to be a different matter.


Harbour Street, Efes


Poppies at Efes
Before Efes, though, a word on the flowers. Springtime in Turkey is gorgeous. All of a sudden the whole of the country is covered in blooms. Blankets of poppies appear in every possible patch of green. Giant thistles display their purple flowers with glee and meadows of every colour of wild flower cover the countryside. Along with the flowers come butterflies, bees, grasshoppers, beetles and all kinds of colourful insects. Birdsong is everywhere and all in all it is a magical time of the year.


Curetes Way, Efes
Efes is world famous, and rightly so. It is a truly magnificent site, but there is so much to take in it is almost overwhelming. To be honest you should probably spend more than an afternoon to glean everything from it. We walked through it, stopping at the big attractions and absorbing the atmosphere of the city. We tried to imagine what it must have been like at the time and decided, given the number of visitors was probably around the same as the number of original inhabitants, it was probably not far off what we were seeing. The theatre, like those of Hierapolis and Afrodisias was very impressive. I also particularly liked walking along the marble-paved streets and wouldn't have missed the communal latrine for the world. The library façade was breathtaking and doesn't disappoint. It was the covered terrace houses, however, that were really thrilling. It is worth paying the extra 10 ytl to go in and have a look at them. You really get a sense of what it must have been like to live in splendour in Roman times. Someone said to me that they were disappointed by the frescoes which “looked like something out of Victorian times”. I gently pointed out that that was probably because the Victorians based their designs on classic Roman forms...




The incredible library of Efes


Sirince (pron. Sheer-rin-jay)
We left Efes and headed up into the hills for a peaceful evening's rest. We stayed in the picturesque Greek village of Sirince at a beautiful pension called Kilisealti. It was wonderful to get away from the heat and bustle of Efes into this cooler mountain environment and once the coach loads of tourists went in the evening it was fairly quiet. Our pension was an old Greek house with thick walls, wooden floorboards and simple textiles and artefacts spread around the rooms. There were goats in the lower garden keeping the grass at bay. We walked the cobbled streets and bought some local wine. It is an area famous for making wine from the fruit it grows. We sampled peach, melon, blackberry, cherry and mulberry wines. They are not too sweet and not sticky at all, in fact very drinkable! Sirince is gorgeous, but don't tell anyone else about it, will you?






Can someone pass me some loo-roll?



Liz had put on a few pounds over winter

  Log | Esper | Spring 2008 | All Alone In Aphrodisias  
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Aphrodisias:
Aphrodisias was a small city in Caria, Asia Minor. It is located near the modern village of Geyre, Turkey, about 230 km from Izmir.

Aphrodisias was named after Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of Love, who had here her unique cult image, the Aphrodite of Aphrodisias. According to the Suda, before being known as Aphrodisias, the city had three previous names: Lelegon Polis, Megale Polis, and Ninoë. The city was later renamed Stauropolis in the Christian era.

The city was built near a marble quarry that was extensively exploited in the Hellenistic and Roman periods, and sculptors in marble from Aphrodisias became famous in the Roman world. Many examples of statuary have been unearthed in Aphrodisias, and some representations of the Aphrodite of Aphrodisias also survive from other parts of the Roman world, as far afield as Portugal.

The Temple of Aphrodite was and still is a focal point of the town, but the character of the building was altered when it became a Christian basilica. The Aphrodisian sculptors became renowned and the school of sculpture was very productive;[4] much of their work can be seen around the site and in the museum. Many full-length statues were discovered in the region of the agora, and trial and unfinished pieces pointing to a true school are in evidence. Sarcophagi were recovered in various locations, most frequently decorated with designs consisting of garland and columns. Pilasters have been, found showing what are described as "peopled scrolls" with figures of people, birds and animals entwined in acanthus leaves. The sculptors benefited from a plentiful supply of marble close at hand.

The cult image that is particular to Aphrodisias, the Aphrodite of Aphrodisias, doubtless once housed in the Temple of Aphrodite, was a distinctive local goddess who became, by interpretatio graeca, identified with the Greek Aphrodite. Her canonical image, typical of Anatolian cult images, shows that she is related to the Lady of Ephesus, widely venerated in the Greco-Roman world as Artemis of Ephesus. The surviving images, from contexts where they must have been more civic than ritual, are without exception from the late phase of the cult, in Hellenistic and Roman times, and are rendered in the naturalistic style common to their culture, which gave the local goddess more universal appeal. Like the Lady of Ephesus, the "Aphrodite" of Aphrodisia wears a thick, form-disguising tunic, encasing her as if in a columnar box, always with four registers of standardized imagery. Her feet are of necessity close together, her forearms stretched forward, to receive and to give. She is adorned with necklaces and wears a mural crown together with a diadem and a wreath of myrtle, draped with a long veil that frames her face and extends to the ground. Beneath her overtunic she wears a floor-length chiton. The bands of decoration on the tunic, rendered in bas-relief, evoke the Goddess's cosmic powers: the Charites, the Three Graces that are the closest attendants of Aphrodite; heads of a married pair (the woman is veiled), identified by Lisa Brody as Gaia and Uranos, Earth and the Heavens, over which this goddess reigns, rather than as Zeus and Hera; Helios and Selene separated by a pillar; the marine Aphrodite, riding a sea-goat, and at the base a group of Erotes performing cult rituals.

Efes (Ephesus):
Ephesus was a city of ancient Anatolia. During the period known as Classical Greece it was located in Ionia, where the Cayster River (Küçük Menderes) flows into the Aegean Sea. It belonged to the Ionian League.

Ephesus hosted one of the seven churches of Asia, addressed in the Book of Revelation of The Bible), and the Gospel of John might have been written here. It is also the site of a large gladiator graveyard.

The city was famed for the Temple of Artemis (completed around 550 BC), and both were destroyed by the Goths in 263. The emperor Constantine rebuilt much of the city and erected a new public bath. The town was again partially destroyed by an earthquake in 614. The importance of the city as a commercial centre declined as the harbour slowly filled with silt from the river.

Today's archaeological site lies 3 kilometers south of the Selçuk district of I.zmir Province, Turkey. The ruins of Ephesus are a favorite international and local tourist attraction, partly owing to their easy accessibility from Adnan Menderes Airport and via the port of Kusadasi.

The site is large. In fact, Ephesus contains the largest collection of Roman ruins East of the Mediterranean. Only an estimated 15% has been excavated. The ruins that are visible give some idea of the city's original splendour, and the names associated with the ruins are evocative of its former life. The theater dominates the view down Harbour Street which leads to the long silted-up harbor.

The Library of Celsus, whose façade has been carefully reconstructed from all original pieces, was built ca. AD 125 by Gaius Julius Aquila in memory of his father, and once held nearly 12,000 scrolls. Designed with an exaggerated entrance — so as to enhance its perceived size, speculate many historians — the building faces east so that the reading rooms could make best use of the morning light.

A part of the site, St. John's Basilica, was built in the 6th century AD, under emperor Justinian I over the supposed site of the apostle's tomb. It is now surrounded by Selçuk.

The Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, is represented only by one inconspicuous column, revealed during an archaeological excavation by the British Museum in the 1870s. Some fragments of the frieze (which are insufficient to suggest the form of the original) and other small finds were removed – some to London and some to the Archaeological Museum, Istanbul.

Source: Wikipedia